Friday, January 30, 2009

MT FANSIPAN CLIMB: GOURMET FOOD & FRENCH WINE


CLIMB MT FANSIPAN, THE HIGHEST MOUNTAIN IN INDOCHINA, 3,143M

with Wild Women on Top coach, Roz Warne

Date: 2 - 11 April 2009

Difficulty: Mod Squad/Chardonnay Set!
Gourmet food and French wine!

Vietnamese Visions

On the lookout for the perfect holiday? A unique blend of fascinating culture, gourmet food, physical challenges, extreme remoteness, bustling markets and exquisite scenery?

Well, here it is!

You climb the highest mountain in Indochina, Mt Fansipan (3,143m), with the local Humong tribesmen satisfying your every need. Then you luxuriate in the tropical waters of Halong Bay, dining on local seafood and kayaking around the world heritage jewel.

I recently enjoyed this trip, as a member of Wild Women On Top, a women’s adventure fitness group from Sydney. We trained for 4 months for our journey and had the time of our lives.

After a busy day inhaling the scents and scenes of market life on the streets of Hanoi, we made our way to the lush terraced mountain hamlet of Sapa, near the border of Vietnam and China. We were greeted by hordes of miniature village women, dressed in the traditional indigo costumes, decorated with brightly coloured brocade.

“You buy from me … you buy from me …” they squeeked affectionately in perfect English. After buying a few hand made trinkets and jewels, we sought refuge in our hotel. The next morning, after the world’s best banana and honey buttered pancakes, we bused our way to the base of Mt Fansipan.

En route, we were unexpectedly forced to use our pooper scoopers, to shift a truck load of sand, which had been thoughtfully dumped in the middle of the road. Then another short delay was caused when our head guide, Tang, discovered that 10 small strong mountain men, can’t carry all the gear required to keep 10 large athletic city women happy, for 4 days in the jungle!

Two more porters were quickly dispatched and by lunch time, we had climbed hundreds of meters up delightfully steep mountain tracks. We alternated between horizontal traverses and near vertical rock and root scrambles.
On the former, we feared toppling sideways off the 30cm wide mushy track, which dropped away sharply into the jungle below. Two members of our team in fact had to be assisted as they slipped gracefully over the edge, clinging to the soft sides of the track by their now dirty fingernails. On the steep ascents, the challenge was to balance your weight carefully as you hauled yourself up, using smooth curvy roots and shifting rocks, while your heart pounded in your chest. An exhilarating test of concentration and focus but we were grateful travel experts, World Expeditions had guaranteed our safety!

We were delighted to arrive at our first camp site to discover that in addition to carrying all our food, wine, clothes, sleeping bags, tents and toiletries, our porters were carrying heavy rubber lilos! And we instantly forgave them for setting our tents up over sloping uneven ground with bits of bamboo strategically arranged to compensate.
But the best was yet to come. Within seconds of arriving, a “Happy Room” had been constructed for our bathroom needs, and the fire was blazing. Minutes later we were ravenously consuming Vietnamese style garlic chips … unanimously voted the “Best Chips” we had ever eaten.

We relaxed contentedly as we watched our team of porters become chefs, preparing a sumptuous banquet on the large bamboo fire. They chatted endlessly in the local dialect as they calmly diced, shredded, peeled, chopped, stir fried and steamed our delicious Vietnamese cuisine. It was quite a spectacle as the flame rose and fell with the heat being controlled with sudden gushes of oil, or quick removal of bamboo fuel.
Incredibly, a selection of 8 different gourmet dishes was served to us as we waited patiently on our bright blue tarp. We cracked open the French wine, and feasted happily, contemplating the next day’s challenges.

Up bright and early with chocolate/ banana pancakes, followed by a 9 hours of steady climbing. We became experts at abseiling down bamboo by turning backwards and grabbing large handfuls of bamboo for a safe descent. We felt like we were in training for “Jungle Survivor”, as we negotiated steep gullies, teetered on tiny rock ledges, crossed slippery streams and finally dragged ourselves into our second camp.

An early morning chicken distress screech took on new meaning as we realised that our former traveling companions, chickens affectionately named Lemon and Cashew, were no longer with us. But after a moment’s hesitation, we hoed into the fragrant garlic chicken, choosing to be philosophical about the reason for their disappearance and our deliciously fresh cuisine.

The third morning was summit day and we were treated to a traditional Vietnamese breakfast to fuel us for the big day. This consisted of savory chicken broth served with fresh herbs, egg and vermicelli noodles. It really hit the spot.

At 11am, after a very hot exposed climb, all ten of us arrived at the summit of Mt Fansipan, with clear skies and no wind. It was magnificent. We hugged and cried as we stood on the highest mountain in Indochina, looking for miles out over Vietnam, China and Laos. Mobile phones and digital cameras ran hot for an hour, as we rang family and friends to tell them our news. Then we headed to our final camp several k’s back down the mountain.

We returned via the “standard” or “cattle trail” route and stumbled across the first people we’d seen in 3 days. And we gratefully enjoyed another serve of the famous garlic chips, with a couple of bottles of Vietnamese red wine, which had been secretly procured by one of our guides.

After a few G & T’s at the old English pub in Sapa, a valedictory lunch and more shopping, we caught the overnight train back to Hanoi. With four in a cabin it was a cosy trip, but, after 3 nights in a tent, the mattresses were luxurious. We all slept soundly and work up to the incessant beeping of bike horns in the city for breakfast.

Our four hour bus trip to Halong Bay was thoughtfully interrupted by a shopping expedition to a fabulous craft, tapestry, painting and lacquerware market. And, yes, you can bring exquisite Vietnamese hand stitched silk tapestries, in large chunky black wooden frames, back into Australia, but be prepared for the cellophane wrapping thing.

Our two days in Halong Bay was a lovely pace, with kayaking, swimming, seafood banquets, sunrises and sunsets on the top deck, and visits to local attractions such as caves, lagoons, lookouts and fishing villages. It was the perfect conclusion to a perfect holiday.
Di Westaway Managing Director, Wild Women on Top

If you like the sound of this, contact Roz at admin@wildwomenontop or ring 0407 899 689 for more information! Or visit our website at http://www.wildwomenontop.com/


AN INSPIRING STORY
Climb a mountain and fundraise for CharityHere’s a story that will inspire you:
In January 2005, 32 year old Amanda Looby’s life hung in the balance as she had both breasts removed and underwent radical reconstruction surgery and chemotherapy for the treatment of breast cancer.
Incredibly, in July 2006, Amanda Looby walked 28 kilometers in one day along the Coast Track of the Royal National Park carrying an 8kg back pack after just 5 weeks of Wild Women on Top training.
In September 2006, Amanda Looby stood on top of Mt Fansipan, the highest mountain in Indochina, with 9 other Aussie women. She had fulfilled her dream, and raised over $6,000 for Breast Cancer Research.Recently Amanda had this conversation with her 6 year old daughter about why she was going to climb a mountain:Amanda said to Zoe: “Well, last year when mummy was sick – did you think I would have been able to climb a mountain?” Zoe looked aghast and said “No way Mum.” Amanda said “Well, now I can. And if you said to me this time last year that I would be able to climb a mountain in a years time – I wouldn’t have believed you – but now I do believe it – now I have climbed a mountain.”So, ANYTHING’S POSSIBLE if you set your mind to it. Go out and achieve your goals and inspire others around you to achieve theirs!!If youre interested in an awesome challenge, contact Wild Women on Top and climb Mt Fansipan with them in April 2009http://www.wildwomenontop.com/